We don't all look like the pictures on the patterns. So, companies have started expanding the base size. You can make a pattern "petiteable" no matter the size; you simply take away from certain parts of the pattern. There are many myths that surround petite clothing; here are a few of these myths dispelled.
Myth: Petite women have to wear the same color to look taller.
Truth: Mix colors of the same value and tie them together with a scarf or other accessory.
Myth: Petite women should always wear a short skirt.
Truth: Wear any length skirt as long as it doesn't hit the fullest part of the leg.
Myth: Shoulder pads make petite women look big.
Truth: Shoulder pads are flattering because they give balance to the body.
Myth: Wear small, dainty accessories.
Truth: Wear bold jewelry that draws attention to your face.
However, there is truth to the fact that large prints are overpowering to a smaller woman. Look for smaller prints in a softer fabric.
Making a Pattern Smaller
As far as patterns go, petites can wear any kind of pattern as long as it's scaled down correctly. Here's how to make alterations to a pattern so that it will fit the petite woman.
Say a shirt pattern comes in a size 8, but you need a size 6 or a 4. Here's what to do.
- Using a ruler, draw a line from the shoulder to the hem of the pattern. To go down a size, you are going to take 1/2" away from the width of the pattern. So, measure 1/2" away from the line and draw a second line.
- Now, take the pattern and fold out the 1/2" you just made.
- Most sleeves won't need adjusting, but if your pattern does, fold 1/2" out of the sleeve, then cut your armhole wider to accommodate the new width of the sleeve.
Taking From the Top
You have found a button-front square-necked dress that you absolutely love, but you need to make some adjustments for your smaller frame. To do this, you will need to take out 1/2" per size you need to drop from the front panel. Again, go from the neckline to the hem. (Keep in mind that by taking 1/2" from both sides, you'll actually be going down 1" or two dress sizes.)
Smaller Sleeves
If you are working with raglan sleeves, you might need to cut some fabric out. These sleeves come in at an angle, so make 1" sleeve hems. If that isn't enough, take 1/2" out of the front of the piece you are sewing the sleeves on to.
When Your Front and Back Don't Match
As we age usually the front chest area gets smaller and the back broadens. So, your front may be a size 10, but the rest of you a size 16. To alter just the front of a pattern, complete the following steps.
- Draw a line that's parallel with the grain line right in the middle of the pattern's shoulder piece. Draw another line across the bottom of the armhole, forming an L intersecting into the line you just drew.
- Now, cut the bottom of the L. Determine the amount you want taken out. If it's an inch from each side, then fold out an inch of the armhole. This allows the upper -chest portion of the pattern to get smaller, while the rest of the pattern remains the same.
- Because you are adding to the armhole, remember to add the same amount to the sleeve front. If you don't follow this step, the back won't match up.
- Use the technique of easing or crimping on your machine. The thicker the material, the longer the stitch will need to be. You want the fabric for the shoulder to gather a bit, but you can't ease a whole inch or it will end up looking like a ruffle. So you'll probably still be off 1/2" when matching up the pattern.
- To get rid of the mismatch, fold the shoulder in half and pin a dart in it. Sew the dart, and the pieces should match up.
Short and Sweet
If you usually have to shorten patterns more than 2", you'll like this tip. On the back of the pattern, look for the finished length. If the pattern says the finished length is 44 1/2" and you want 40", follow these steps.
- Before shortening, look at the bottom of the pattern for the hem allowance. If it indicates, 1-1/2", make it a 1" hem. This way, you will be getting rid of 8" total from the pattern, and making it a whole number will make it easier.
- Go ahead and get rid of 2" - but no more - from the bottom of the pattern.
- Next, draw three lines within the pattern to shorten the length. Take 2" out of each line.
- When you fold it, the skirt will have a jagged or stair-stepped seam line. Take a ruler and place it on the outside edge of the pattern and bring it in to the hip line. Fill the pattern in on both sides to create a straight seam line.
One more tip: If you are petite and go for the oversized look, be careful. Your rule should be not to extend any tops past crotch length.
Resources Power Sewing
by Sandra Betzina
This title is out of print. Consult local libraries and used bookstores for copies.
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