Darts A dart on a finished garment should be perfectly flat and just fade into the garment without being obvious. Try these tips to accomplish perfect darts:
- When marking a dart on a pattern, place a pin on the dot at the end of the dart marking, and snip a 1/4" cut on each of the two lines at the top of the dart marking located at the fabric edge.
- When working with two layers of fabric, lift the first layer and mark the second layer at the pin using chalk or a fabric marker. For inexperienced dart makers, use a straight edge and a fabric marker to draw the dart marking on the fabric. The dart pattern can also be transferred to the fabric using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. To keep tracing wheel from damaging pattern, cover pattern with a plastic bag as a protective layer before tracing.
- Position a straight pin at the dot on the dart pattern. Line up the sides of the dart pattern according to the 1/4" cuts or pattern transfer and fold. Pin to secure. Using a regular stitch, start at the 1/4" cuts at the top of the dart and sew in a straight, diagonal line toward the dot mark at the bottom of the dart. To eliminate the need for bulky backstitching, switch to a small stitch length when sewing the final 1/2" of the dart. Move ever closer toward the fold, guiding the stitch line essentially off the fabric at the dot mark.
- For those needing fullness to camouflage a high hip area at the back of pants or skirts, pin the straight dart, but stitch the dart in a slightly in-curving manner, towards the fold, rather than in a straight line. Remember to sew towards the dot and off the fabric and to reduce the stitch length for the last 1/2" of the dart. Knot and cut threads. This technique is only for the back of pants or skirts.
- Press darts toward the center. A tailor's ham is the ideal pressing surface for straight and curved darts.
- For heavier fabrics, such as wool, clip and press open the upper part of the dart to eliminate bulk and gain a more professional look.
- To prevent puckers when sewing darts in felt or synthetic suede or leather type fabrics, stitch a small square of stiff fabric such as hair canvas or linen under the bottom of the dart at the point. The additional piece of fabric works to support the dart on heavy fabrics.
Gathers
Down & Dirty Method
Use the down and dirty method of gathering whenever you need a shortcut. It works especially well for home decorating projects. With this method, use a long zigzag stitch to attach a length of string along the edge of the fabric. Once the string is tacked on to the fabric, mark off quarter lengths of the fabric using safety pins. Gently tug the ends of the string, gathering a quarter of the length of the fabric at a time to help keep gathers even.
Perfectionist Method
If sewing a silk garment, the down and dirty method of gathering would not be the most appropriate to use because the gathers are not always even. Use a long, straight stitch and a heavy duty thread on the bobbin. Place the first row of stitches 3/8" from the edge of the fabric. Remove the fabric out of the machine and flatten out the preliminary gathers. Place another row of stitches 7/8" from the edge of the fabric. Pulling one row at a time, tug on the heavy duty thread only. Position straight pins near the end of the heavy duty threads. Wrap the end of the threads around the straight pins in order to press the gathered fabric without loosening the gathers.
Tips for Pleats
- For patterns with pleats, fold the pattern at the pleat to help determine if more fabric is needed to keep pleats from flaring open at the ends.
- Try this trick for making stronger pleats. Sew to the end of the pleat, keeping the needle through the fabric. Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric so it is lined up to create an upward diagonal straight stitch toward the fold. Use this method in place of backstitching or tying knots at the end of the pleat.
- Quite a bit of stress is placed on pleats that end near the hip. Stabilize and reinforce the hip pleat by stitching a small piece of twill tape at the end of the pleat. Then lift the presser foot and turn the fabric so it is lined up to create an upward diagonal straight stitch toward the fold.
- When pressing skirt pleats, lightly spritz the pleat with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar to 1 cup of water. The mixture works to give the pleat memory, making it easier to iron.
Resources Power Sewing
by Sandra Betzina
This title is out of print. Consult local libraries and used bookstores for copies.
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