by Sandra Betzina
Scripps Howard News Service
Many times what gives away a home-sewn garment is the dart.
For starters, dart placement is very important if you want a professional look. To avoid fabric dimples under the front darts of a skirt, move the darts toward the side seam about an inch so that the darts are pointing toward an area of fullness.
The end of the bust dart should be 1/2 to 1 inch from the apex of the bust. The point of a bust dart should not be seen from the front of the garment. The bust dart may be shortened by merely ending the dart sooner.
The best way to mark a dart is with snips in the seam allowance and a chalk or pen mark at the end of the dart. In some fabrics the darts can be ironed along the fold or hand basted in a slippery or napped fabric.
Never backstitch at the beginning or end of a dart. Backstitching creates bulk, which prevents the dart from lying flat. It isn't necessary to tie threads at the beginning and end of a dart. It takes too much time, and a machine knot is preferable.
When beginning a dart, you can make a machine knot by pulling gently at the fabric 2 to 3 inches from the front of the presser foot. This prevents the fabric from moving under the presser foot and causing the machine to sew in place on top of the first stitch or two. You need to hold the fabric for only a split second, just long enough for the sewing machine to take one quick stitch on top of the first.
As soon as you begin sewing a dart, think about ending it. On the last 1/2 inch of the dart, you should be sewing on practically nothing, just a few threads. At about 1/2 inch from the end of the dart, switch the stitch length to a small, reinforcing stitch. When you come to the end of the dart, simply run off the end of the dart. No backstitching or tying of threads is necessary.
Clip open darts to help them conform better to the body. To open a dart, clip only to the point where the dart is 1/4 inch wide.
Darts will lie flatter is they are pressed over a tailor's ham to block in shape. Avoid this procedure for front darts over the tummy. This molding process makes the tummy more noticeable. Press these darts flat.
A dart that curves in a bit toward the fold provides a better fit if you have fullness over the high hip in back. The reverse curved dart, bending out away from the fold, fits well on an individual with a curved spine or sway back.
To eliminate the dimple at the end of the dart in gabardine, Ultrasuede and other difficult-to-press fabrics, cut a piece of lining or organza one inch longer and double the width of the sewn dart. Fold in half lengthwise. Place a lining strip under the dart as you sew. Sew dart from fat to skinny end, switching to small stitches 1/2 inch from dart point. To press, place dart over ham. Press fashion fabric dart in one direction, lining strip or organza dart in the other. The result--a dart without dimple.
(Sandra Betzina is the author of a number of instructional books and video tapes about sewing and fabric care and selection. Her web site is www.sandrabetzina.com.)
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