If you've ever found the perfect garment pattern, but have not been able to find the right fabric for it . . . you're not alone! Learn a way of solving that problem, and the solution just might be in your own bedroom.
Materials:
matelasse fabric
pattern
fusible interfacing
scissors
large straight pins
Steps:
1. Reinforce the pocket flap pattern piece with fusible interfacing (figure A). Pin the pocket flap and lining pieces right sides together. Stitch these, leaving the upper edge open (figure B). Diagonally trim off the corners to eliminate bulk. Turn the right side out and press.
2. Baste the edges together and trim the seam allowances, leaving about a 1/4 inch.
3. Edge stitch and topstitch along the edges. Finish off this raw edge. A serger comes in handy for that.
4. Pin the flap to the front piece (figure C). Placing the right side of the pocket flap to the right side of the fabric, pin the flap in the up position and then stitch into place.
5. So that the flap won't stick out, hand stitch it, tack it down, or topstitch it flat.
6. Reinforce the inner corner of the back piece (figure D). Seam the inset panel and serge the edges (figure E). Lightly press the edges toward the outside. Edge-stitch and topstitch over the entire seam. This faux flat fell gives you the finished edge you need, but eliminates the tedious effort required and the bulk you might get with a true flat fell.
7. Pin the back section with the side sections. Using the same kind of stitch, seam the pieces together. Finish off the seam with a "faux" flat fell.
8. Attach the front panel to the side panel. Pin and stitch the sides. Again, finish off the seam with a "faux" flat fell.
9. Cut out six strips and sew them together at the ends to get one long strip.
10. Press over 1/4 inch on one edge of the facing and begin pinning it at the front panel. Do this around the entire edge, mitering the corners (figure F). Set aside the left-over facing to use on the sleeves.
11. Pin the extra facing to the lower edge of the under sleeve, and extend one end 3/8-inch beyond the mark. Stitch it and trim it.
12. Turn the facing to the inside, press it and baste it, stopping one inch from the mark.
13. Pin the facing in the upper sleeve piece. Fold the fullness at the corners and miter them. Stitch the facing to the sleeve piece and pivot when reaching the corner.
14. Turn the facing to the inside and press and baste into place, stopping about one inch from the mark. Pin the upper sleeve to the lower sleeve at the over arm edge and seam these together. Finish this with the "faux" fell seam.
15. With the wrong side of the sleeve out, open the facing at the underarm. Stitch the sleeve seam, continuing across the facing. Turn the facing in, press it, and baste the rest of it in place.
16. With the right side out, edge-stitch and topstitch the lower and side edges of the sleeve. Connect with the previous stitching.
17. Turning right sides together, pin the sleeve into the armhole, matching it up. Baste it into place and sew in the sleeve. Finish off the edges with the serger; then edge-stitch and topstitch.
18. Repeat the same steps with the other sleeve and add the shoulder pads.
Tips:
- Do a test seam to determine stitch length. Try 1-3/4 to 3 millimeters or eight to 15 stitches per inch.
- Watch for imperfections in the matelasse and adjust as necessary.
Resources Fabric Savvy
by Sandra Betzina (ISBN: 1561582670)
Order this title
Power Sewing
95 Fifth Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94118
US
Phone: 415-386-0440
E-mail:
karie@sandrabetzinaonline.com
Website:
www.sandrabetzina.com
sewing patterns - Butterick / Vogue
Due to seasonal changes, the exact patterns seen on the show are not generally available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
Butterick / Vogue
Website:
www.butterick.com
Also in this Episode
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