7. Trim the under-collar to accommodate for turning the cloth (figure D). The thicker the fabric, the more you trim. A difference in size between upper and under collar will eliminate excess fabric in under-collar and prevent it from creeping from under.
8. Finish the edge of the back facing using the Hong Kong technique. Place the finished unit on top of lining and stitch in the ditch. Finish the front facing in the same way. Join shoulder seams of facing/lining units.
Tip: If no facing pattern is included with the pattern, then one may be made by tracing the neckline of the lining pattern and adding about two inches all around. The neckline is a high wear and tear location, and using just lining is to weak for this area, therefore reinforce with a facing
9. Treat hem and sleeve hems with a Hong Kong finish for a clean look. Tuck lining between hem and garment, and sew lining to hem edge.
10. Hand under-stitch the facing to the front using a seed bead in every stitch (stitches are 1/4 inch apart and 1/4 inch away from the folded edge). Tip: An alternate way to keep the facing and under-collar tucked neatly to the underside is to either under-stitch by machine or by hand. You can choose to under-stitch by hand, and because velvet mars fairly easily, pick up a seed bead with every stitch. The same can be done when the buttons are attached by placing seed beads behind the button to cover up the stitching.
11. Add custom buttons, your label--ready to wear it!
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