Applying a collar with a neckband is much easier if you reduce all seam allowances to 1/4 inch on collar, neckband and neckline of shirt.
- Start by interfacing, sewing, clipping and pressing the collar without the neckband. All collar edges are finished except for the neck edge. Clip neck edge of collar no deeper than 1/4 inch to permit it to mold easily to the shape of the neckband. Staystitch shirt neckline at 1/4 inch and clip neckline curve at one-inch intervals.
- Interface both neckband pieces completely. To eliminate wrinkling in the inner neckband, trim 1/16 inches from the outer edges, including the ends, but not the neck edge where it will be attached to the shirt. This piece will be the inside neckband, the one closest to the body. Mark it with an "x".
- Join upper collar and under collar except for neck edge. Press and pound flat. Place upper collar against the right side of the trimmed inner neckband. Baste from one end of the collar to the other. Place the right side of the inner neckband against the wrong side of the shirt. Since you trimmed the seam allowances initially, sew neckline seam at 1/4 inch.
- Roll up the ends of the collar tightly and pin to the inner neckband so that they are clear of all neckband seams. With right sides together, place the outer neckband against the inner neckband. Place pins on the inner neckband side so that the feed dogs on the sewing machine will ease the outer neckband to the trimmed inner neckband.
- Tuck the front edges of the shirt and the collar inside of the neckband for about two inches on each end. Roll up the collar inside so that it doesn't get caught in the stitches. With inner neckband side up, start sewing the outer neckband to the inner neckband about one inch in on the neckline seam with a 1/4-inch wide seam. Sew toward the front edge of the shirt. Just past the front edge of the shirt, leave the needle in the fabric, pivot and sew around the ends of the neckband. Be careful not the catch the rolled-up collar in with your stitching.
- Continue sewing all around the collar-attached side of the neckband, over the basting line that is attached the collar to the inner neckband. Continue around the opposite end of the neckband. Once again, sandwich about two inches of the shirt and the collar inside of the neckband. Sew the other neckband end and into the neckline for one inch. Give a quick turn to make sure neither the collar nor the shirt gets caught in the stitching.
- Trim away any bulk on the ends. Turn under the 1/4-inch seam allowance on the outer neckband and pin into place. You may find this easier to do over the tailor's ham. Topstitch around the entire neckband 1/8 inch from edge. Press and pound flat with a tailor clapper.
Resources Islander School of Fashion Arts sewing seminars, videos
Islander School of Fashion Arts Inc. / Islander Sewing Systems
Grants Pass, OR
US
Phone: 541-479-3906
Email:
sew-tech@chatlink.com
URL:
www.islandersewing.com
No Time to Sew
by Sandra Betzina (ISBN: 0875967442)
Click
here to order this title.
Power Sewing
95 Fifth Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94118
US
Phone: 415-386-0440
E-mail:
karie@sandrabetzinaonline.com
Website:
www.sandrabetzina.com
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