Here's how to change a pattern to get exactly what you want out of collars.
- To make the collar smaller, you simply trim inside the seam allowance. You can make any changes you want as long as you don't alter the pattern along the neck edge. Make the same adjustments for the upper and under collar.
- Many pattern companies make their collars short. To lengthen stand-up collars, add a bit to the pattern. Tape a piece of paper under the collar pattern and simply sketch in 1/2" more to the pattern. Curve back into the original at the edge.
Mandarin CollarThese patterns usually run narrow. Tape a piece of paper to the back of the pattern and add 1/2" to the top of the pattern. Never change the neck edge of the pattern.
Rounding a Pointed Collar
If you have a pointed collar and you want to round it, try this. Fold the collar in half and round the edges with scissors. This way both sides will be even.
Stiff Collars
Sometimes fusible interfacing does not provide enough support for stand up collars. Try hand-stitching a firm facing in between the front and the back of the collar. Also interface both the front and the back of the collar with fusible interfacing for flat collars. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" at the neck edge. This makes it easier to apply a well-fitting collar to the neck.
Make a collar lie flat by turning to the upper side and sewing 1/8" seam allowance into the facing.
To make a collar bigger, measure the neck of the pattern and your neck, determining the difference. Cut the pattern in half and add the amount you need. Do this for both the collar and yoke, adding to the center of the pattern.
Guests Margaret Islander
Sewing Expert, Executive Director, Islander School of Fashion Arts / Islander Sewing Systems
PO Box 66
Grants Pass, OR 97528
Phone: 541-479-3906
Fax: 541-479-3906
Email:
sew-tech@chatlink.com
URL:
www.islandersewing.com
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