Today's woman has outgrown standard pattern sizes first developed in the 1940s. The 1990s woman is typically taller with a wider waist and a broader back than women of the 1940s. The pattern industry is developing a new sizing chart that fits today's woman, meaning less alterations for the home tailor. Still, knowing where and when to alter can be useful. Keep these tips in mind when altering.
- The typical pattern is made to fit someone measuring 5'-6" and has a lengthen /shorten line. To make garments fit more accurately, adjust the pattern above, below and on this line.
- If shortening a garment, run an ease line, then stitch in a length of twill tape along the front lower half of the armhole and neckline to achieve a more cupped fit in the front of the body. Position the ease line 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch in the seam allowance and use a 3.5 stitch length. Ease more for larger busts. Add ease to entire armhole to control gaping for rounded backs.
- Hide alterations at seam lines for fabric pieces that have been cut out or make alterations to patterns before cutting fabric.
- To lengthen pant or skirt patterns, cut and add paper to the pattern at the crotch, above the knee and below the knee. Reduce pant and skirt patterns in the same manner , cutting and taking out pattern paper at the crotch, above the knee and below the knee. Making alterations in this manner will address the problem without compromising the pattern shape.
Every woman under 5'6" wants to be taller, but if you are tall, you know that finding clothes that fit can be difficult. Patterns are designed for women who average 5'6", so alterations need to be made for the taller woman.
Lengthening a Jacket
Measure back-waist length from bone at base of neck down to the waist. Generally, this won't differ much from the pattern, so just add to the length of the jacket. Next, measure for sleeves from the shoulder joint to the bottom of the bone at the wrist, bending your elbow for accurate measurement. Say the pattern allows 21 inches in the sleeve, but you need 24-1/2 inches. You are going to want to add to the pattern without changing the proportions.
- Draw two lengthening lines on the pattern, one near the top and one near the bottom.
- Cut the pattern in half at those two lines and add even amounts above each of the two lines.
- When adding to the pattern, match up the grain line. To even out the two sides, sketch a line to connect all parts of the pattern so that it looks like the original jacket pattern.
Adjusting the Waist Line for the Taller Woman
If you need to adjust the waistline of a garment, you will need to add length up near the arm area and also below the waist.
- Draw two separate lines, one below the arm and one below the waist.
- Divide the number of inches you want to add in half, adding each half to the pattern at each of the two lines.
- Remember, everything you do to the front, you'll want to do to the back.
- When you lengthen the jacket, you'll need to lengthen the sleeve cap as well.
Pockets
Many times, pockets are too small for taller women. Try adding 1/2 inch all the way around the pocket pattern to create a larger, more comfortable pocket.
Shawl Collars
If your pattern has a shawl collar, you'll need to make it larger. You don't want to make the collar longer, just wider. A little goes a long way, so start with adding 3/4 inch. Add 3/4 inch to the top of the shawl collar pattern, but as you near the bottom of the collar, begin tapering in so that you aren't adding any to the length.
Do the same thing for the facing of the shawl collar. Tape paper to the underside of the pattern. Then, place your shawl collar pattern on top of the facing pattern and begin tracing it so that the two patterns match up.
To get a shawl collar to lie flat, try this tip. Make the seam that runs across the back center of the collar (at the nape of the neck) slightly smaller than the rest of the collar. You may start with 5/8 inch seam, but end with 3/8 inch at the outside edge. Repeat this for the facing as well.
How to Lengthen Pants and Skirts
Pants
Tapered pants are very popular, and often people try to just add length to the bottom of the pattern. This doesn't work because the leg gets too skinny. Instead, do this.
- Add first to the crotch length.
- Next, look for other places to add length. If there's a line at the thigh, add up to 2 inches there.
- Try to make any additions above the calf. This way, you keep the silhouette of the original pants pattern.
Skirt
You can add 2 inches length to lots of places on a skirt pattern, including the bottom. Just remember to not add any more than 2 inches to any one place on the skirt.
