A good neckline does three things:
- Fits properly over the head in pullover garments.
- It does not reveal anything you do not want to be seen.
- It lies flat against the body and is comfortable.
V-Neckline
If you have garments that gape open between the neck and the arm, you need to first make your pattern shorter. In the area of the notch, fold out 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch of the pattern. If this only happens on V-neck patterns, deepen the seam allowance along the neckline, starting about 1/2 inch down. Deepen it to sew at 7/8 inch, then as you get close to the point, go back to a 5/8-inch seam. Use twill tape to stabilize the seam, but as you get to the end of the V -neck, stop using the twill tape, and sew with tiny stitches to prevent puckering. If you prefer to show less skin, reverse this. Where you curved out 7/8 inches before, you will now curve the pattern into 3/8 of an inch. You can also raise the V-neckline by adding a bit to the pattern using a piece of paper.
Circular Neckline
First decide how far down from the neck you want your seam to be positioned. Then you can create a curved neckline on any pattern. Using a ruler, extend the line of the center front of the pattern on a piece of paper. Then draw half the circle on the paper as the new neckline.
b>No-Bulk Necklines
Three neckline embellishments on garments include ribbing, purchased bias and satin. Follow these guidelines when working with any of these neckline additions.
Ribbed Neckline
- At 5/8 inch, sew a line of staystitching around the neckline. Trim the fabric all the way around the stitching down to 1/6 inch.
- Clip the neckline all the way into the staystitching without clipping the actual stitches. If your ribbing is tube-shaped, cut it so that you can work with a flat piece. You want it to be about 2 1/2-inch wide.
- Fold the ribbing lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press it.
- Put ribbing on the fabric right sides together and pin it.
- When you get to the shoulder seam, put a mark two inches in on each shoulder. Here you'll put a little less ribbing between these two marks extending across the back. This way, the neck will not be loose. Stretch the ribbing onto this part instead of just pinning it down.
- Sew all the way around the neckline with a 1/4inch seam. Turn fabric right side out.
- Topstitch the material and the ribbing to flatten it.
Purchased Bias
Add twill tape as you sew a 3/4-inch staystitch line. Trim the excess fabric.
- Iron the double-fold bias tape and stretch the opened edge so that it will fit around the neckline.
- Pin bias tape to the neckline, leaving about two inches extended at the beginning and the end. Start at the shoulder seam or at the center back, cupping the shorter side of the bias onto the right side of the fabric.
- Topstitch the bias tape to the neckline.
- To join the ends of the bias tape, fold it on top of each other. Then, mark a line in the bias that is even with either the center seam or the shoulder seam.
- Unfold the bias tape and press each end completely open.
- Pin the two pieces right sides together exactly at the marking.
- Sew a straight line on the inside of a pin. Trim the excess bias.
- Flip the bias tape right side out, and reposition along the neckline. Finish topstitching the bias tape to the neckline.
Satin Neckline
- Cut a strip of satin 1-1/2-inch wide and fold it right sides together. Press and shape the open end to fit the neckline.
- Staystitch the opening of the neckline at 5/8 inches and trim it down.
- Pin satin to the fabric, right sides together and pin the edges together. Topstitch the satin all the way around, folding the end on top of the starting point.
- Once you have folded the satin, topstitch the neckline by hand. Press the neckline to flatten the satin.
Resources More Power Sewing
by Sandra Betzina (ISBN: 1880630141)
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Power Sewing
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