Adding Seams for Interest

This is a wonderful technique if you have a pair of pants that you love, but can't fit in them anymore. Try opening up the side seam and adding a contrasting fabric to the sides. Be sure to look for the same type of fabric. If your pants are cotton, then choose another cotton fabric for the side seams.

1. Start by cutting out the side seams from bottom to waist, including the hem. Cut your contrasting fabric the same length as the pants. The width should be about 3". This will yield about 2" of extra expansion on each side of the pants.
2. You can do two things if you have lining in the pants. Cut them out completely or repeat this technique with them as well. If you know you do not want the lining, then cut them out now, otherwise you'll have to work around them while adding the fabric to the side seams of the pants.
3. Pin the contrast fabric on one side of the opened seam (right sides together) and stitch. Repeat with the other side of the fabric.
4. Continue these steps for the other pant leg.
5. Sew a small dart at the top of the pant where they meet the waistband and fold under fabric. Insert the fabric inside the waistband area and topstitch.
6. Hem the bottom of the pants to desired length.

Piping in a Princess Seam

1. Cover piping with fabric then trim it down so the distance between the sewing line and the cut edge is 5/8".
2. Pin piping on the right side of your fabric. Hand-baste the piping on the sewing line.
3. Pin another piece of fabric on top of the piping (right sides together) then clip any curved areas so the fabric will fit together better.
4. You'll need to use a zipper foot to sew the piping and fabric together and a stitch length of 3.5. Sew on the basting line then press all the seams toward the outside.
5. Turn project and press on the outside.

Topstitching/Edgestitching Tips

• Be sure to use an N needle and topstitching thread when topstitching. It's also a good idea to lengthen your stitch.
• Edgestitching gets you very close to the edge of the fabric. It requires a special foot with a guide and you should use a smaller stitch length.

Guest Susan Khalje shares ideas on interesting zippers.

Guests
Susan Khalje
Author / Couture Sewing School
PO Box 51
Long Green, MD 21092
Phone: 410-592-5711
Fax: 410-592-6913
Email: SKhalje@aol.com
URL: www.susankhalje.com
Also in this Episode

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-602
•	Adding Seams for Interest