Capri Pants

Sew Much More : Episode SMM-159 -- More Projects »
Making a comeback from their popular counterparts of the '50s and '60s, Capri pants are again the height of fashion. Host Susan Khalje demonstrates tips on making fashionable Capri pants in a variety of styles for all body types.

Cropped pants are kind of tricky, because they won't elongate your look like full-length pants will. People with shorter legs should try on different styles to see where the length looks best. A good bet would be to wear the length that hits further down the calf than the style that hits right below the knee. Longer Capri pants are also more suitable for office wear; they are a little less casual than their shorter counterpart. Ladies with long legs can wear almost any length of these pants. As far as the cut of the hips and waist of the pants, go with what looks good on you with traditional pants style. If you look better in pleated slacks, wear pleated Capri pants. If you look better in a straighter style, you should stick with that here as well. And finally, choose a fabric that fits the style you are making. For tighter Capri pants, go with a fabric with a little bit of stretch to it. For a looser style, fabrics like cotton and linen make a good choice.

Materials:

Capri pants pattern
stretch fabric
interfacing
zipper
zipper foot
hook and eye closures
scissors
seam ripper
bodkin
thread

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Figure A

Steps:

1. Layout and cut pattern pieces according to pattern directions.

2. Interface the waistband pieces (figure A). Facing pieces for the waistband will not need to be interfaced.

3. Stitch darts into the front pieces and press toward the center. Follow pattern instructions for back pieces.

4. Stitch the small section between the marks of the zipper and front section between the square and the small dot on the pattern. For the fly opening on the front, pin and machine-baste close the zipper opening (figure B). Press the top flap back to establish the stitching line for the zipper--about 5/8 inch in from the opening --and finish at the seam allowance (figure C).

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Figure B
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Figure C

5. To shorten the zipper, make a new zipper stop by placing the zipper along the opening edge, mark the placement of the new zipper stop, and hand-tack across the teeth of the zipper at this mark (figure D). Trim the excess.

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Figure D
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Figure E

6. Pin the open zipper face down on the left front extension (folded edge). Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the edge. To complete the zipper, use a wax pencil to mark the other side of the zipper placement. Unzip the zipper and pin and stitch in place. For the decorative (topstitching), use a wax pencil to mark the stitching on the front and stitch (figure E). Use a seam ripper to remove the basting stitches.

7. Using a regular pressing foot, pin the fronts and backs at the inseam and stitch in place using a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.

8. Position the fronts and the backs right sides together and pin and stitch around the curve of the crotch. Reinforce the crotch area by back tacking in place or stitch a second time.

9. Pin and stitch the outside seams, right sides together, and press the seams open.

10. Stitch the buttonholes in place on the interfaced waistband pieces and stitch the center back seam together. Press the seams open.

11. Pin the waistband to the upper edge of the garment, right sides together, and stitch in place.

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Figure F

12. To attach the facing, pin and stitch the two facing pieces together at the center back seam and press the seams open. Turn up a 5/8-inch seam allowance on the facing and press and trim the excess. Pin the facing to the waistband, right sides together, and begin stitching at the zipper (figure F). Trim the seam allowance and trim the bulk out of corners and invert. To finish the waistband, pin and stitch in the ditch on the right side and attach a hook and eye closure to the waistband.

13. For the drawstring tie, fold along the fold line, press and stitch leaving the ends open. Trim away the excess and turn inside out. Tuck the edges in and sew.

14. Insert the drawstring through the buttonhole and move all the way around the other buttonhole using a bodkin.

15. Baste a 5/8-inch seam allowance to form a hem along the lower edge of the pants. Fold up, press, fold again and press. Topstitch to finish.

16. To lengthen your pants, sew wide ribbon bands along the bottom hem.

Resources
stretch fabric - Textile Fabric Store
Textile Fabric Store
4051 Hillsboro Pike
Nashville, TN 37215
US
Phone: 615-297-5346
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