Custom Leather Pants

Leather tips:

• Types of leather suitable for home sewers include soft and thin lightweight cow , lamb- and pigskins.
• Pattern selection should include several small pieces or large pattern pieces that can be seamed. The featured pant pattern has been seamed a few inches above the knee to make better use of the leather. The waistband at the center back is also seamed.
• Always make a muslin version of the pattern for test fitting, as leather is difficult to alter without leaving holes and weakening the leather.
• Prepare the pattern by transferring it to a heavier paper. Make sure to cut a pattern for every single piece. Lay out all the pattern pieces to make the best use of the skins.

Materials:

four pieces of lambskin leather
leather fuse interfacing precut for the waistband , center front, fly extension
cold fuse tape to stabilize waistband, waistline , back yoke seam, pocket edges, back/front crotch curve
1-1/2 yards lining fabric
1/4 yard pocketing or selisia
seven-inch zipper
100-percent polyester or nylon thread
Vogue pattern transferred to brown paper
button
Teflon foot
leather sewing machine needle - size 16
rubber cement to secure seams
glue stick for basting
paper clips or binder clips instead of pins
glovers hand -sewing needles
rubber mallet
brown paper press cloth

Steps:

1. Using weights to hold patterns in position (figure A), cut one pattern piece using a rotary cutter, then interface and apply cold fuse tape.

2. Press the leather using a press cloth. Be sure that the iron is not too hot and there is minimal steam to avoid drying out or shrinking the skin.

3. Apply cold fuse tape to center back crotch curve to stabilize edges to prevent stretching.

4. A tracing wheel cannot be used to transfer pattern markings because it will mar the leather. To transfer marks, punch the pattern with small holes at the back pocket markings using a soft lead pencil to lightly mark the leather.

5. Cut the pockets from selesia (figure B), because it is strong and stands up well. Baste the leather facing to the pocket sections and zigzag stitch along the lower edge to keep it flat and smooth. Baste the leather front section to the pocket sections and zigzag stitch along the lower edge. Baste and sew in along with the fly zipper.

6. Attach the pocket sections to upper side edge of front pant. Use a longer stitch length, 4 to 5mm for leather, and a size 16 leather point machine needle. Trim seam allowance and clip the curve. Turn the pocket to inside. Press. Flatten the edge with a rubber mallet. Cover with a soft press cloth to prevent damage to the leather.

7. Topstitch the curved edge of the pocket with two rows of stitching. Stitch the lower, outer edge of the pocket lining closed. Reinforce the pocket seams with a second row of stitching. Baste the prepared pocket with the stay into position along the top, side and center front edges.

8. Stitch the two pant fronts together along the center front, leaving open above notch for zipper. Trim seam allowance to 3/8 inch.

9. Insert the fly zipper using the same methods as you would use for cloth. To complete the final topstitching on the left front, mark the topstitching line using a cardboard template and a soft lead pencil (figure C). Stitch along topstitching line. Stitch again 1/4 inch away from first line. Don't backstitch; instead, pull threads to wrong side and knot.

10. Sew in the knee seam by the lengthening the stitch and avoiding backstitching as it makes too many perforations in the leather. Knot thread ends. Press the seam flat, open and glue into position. Use rubber cement (not too much) to avoid staining the leather.

11. Apply cold fuse tape to the upper edge to prevent stretching. Cut Selesia slightly smaller and glue-baste to hold in place on the wrong side of the pocket (figure D). Press 1/4 inch of the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side. Using a cardboard template, press top and sides of pocket.

12. Use a glue stick to temporarily baste the back pockets and hold them into position. Sew a couple of stitches along the top edge of the pocket first before topstitching sides and bottom of pocket. Knot threads on wrong side, then stitch the yokes, grade the seams and topstitch with two rows of topstitching.

13. Stitch the center back seam using paper clips instead of pins to hold. Grade seam allowances, paying attention to the very thick area where the yokes meet. Use a rubber mallet to flatten yoke area. Glue. Topstitch with two rows of stitching. If your machine skips a stitch, use a needle and thread and go back into the skipped stitch hole to catch the loose thread. Join the back knee seams, then fronts and backs together along side seams and inner leg.

14. Optional: Make belt loops using small scraps of leather measuring 1-1/4" x 4". Glue, then turn under 1/4 inch and fold over again to make a 3/8 inch wide loop. Baste to pants.

15. Prepare buttonhole welts from scraps of leather, gluing them in half and pressing. Mark buttonhole opening accurately on the wrong side of the waistband. Cut the buttonhole window down the center and carefully into a V-shape at the corners. Glue the cut flaps to the wrong side (figure E). Glue welts in place on wrong side of window. Trim and round corners of welts. Press waistband center front seam allowances under.

16. Fold the waistband center front edges over and hammer flat. Beginning at the front loop edge, stitch the waistband catching the upper edge of the belt loops as you topstitch around. Edge-stitch around bound buttonhole. Cut away facing from buttonhole. Trim the lower edge of waistband facing close to stitching.

17. To finish, glue-hem in place and hammer in a jean style stud button.