Fly Fronts

Here are some trade secrets to making a tricky fly front easier.

If a pants pattern has a fly front, it will already have the correct extension for the front. But, if you're working from a favorite pattern that doesn't have a fly front, simply create your own extension. Take a piece of paper and cut it 1-3/8 inches wide and eight inches long with a rounded edge on the bottom. Tape it onto the pattern. Don't forget to transfer any markings from the fly-front pattern.

Steps:

1. Cut out both sides of the pants and pin them together.
2. Mark the sewing lines from the pattern onto the fabric.
3. Start sewing about one inch from the inner leg. Use a regular machine stitch to start. Once you have sewed about one inch down, lengthen your stitches. Then, as you get closer to the top, return to your regular stitching.
4. Use fusible interfacing to line the back of the seam allowance on both sides. Trim any excess interfacing and press seams open.
5. You should use a zipper two inches longer than the actual fly front. Lay the zipper stop about one inch from the bottom of the fly front curve on one side of the extension.
6. Pick up the garment and lay everything but the zipper and the extension to the left.
7. Pin the zipper down, then sew the first row of stitches.
8. Now turn the zipper under and stitch the fabric again to the same side of the zipper.
9. Pick up the garment again and lay everything but the zipper and the extension to the right.
10. Now, sew the other side of the zipper to the extension. (None of the stitching so far should have ended up on the right side of the fabric.)
11. Turn pants over so that the zipper is on the underside.
12. Spot where zipper stop is and mark it on the top side of the garment.
13. Mark the stitching 1-1/4 inch away from the seam. Now, slope the stitching around the zipper stop. (The zipper should be in between the seam and the stitching marks. From this point on, you won't be sewing on the zipper anymore.)
14. Begin sewing from the bottom up so that no pleats are created. Pull the fabric to the side as you sew to ensure tightness.
15. Open up the basting on the fly front.

Fly Lining

1. Take a piece of fabric 4" x 8" and fold the fabric lengthwise with right sides together.
2. Sew a curve at the bottom to mimic the extension. Trim excess fabric. Turn the fabric right side out. Press it.
3. Sew the fly-front facing behind the inside of the fly facing.
4. Using a small zigzag, put a small bar tab at the base of the zipper. Sew the tab across both the pants and the zipper about 1/4 inch. This will protect your seam.

Finishing the Pants

1. To add the waistband, turn pants to the wrong side. Make a chalk mark 5/8 inch down, going across the zipper and front of the pants. Use as your guide.
2. Sew waistband to pants, right sides together.
3. At this point, cut off the top of the zipper that extends past the waistband.
4. Finish the waistband according to your pants pattern directions.

Resources
Simplicity pattern
Due to seasonal changes and new designs, the exact Simplicity brand pattern numbers seen on this show are often no longer available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
Simplicity Pattern Company
Niles, MI
US
Toll Free Phone: 888-588-2700
Email: info@simplicity.com
URL: www.simplicity.com
Also in this Episode

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-309
•	Fly Fronts