One-Seam Pants

Materials:

two lengths of 45" to 60" (average size) fabrics (light to medium weight rayons, linens, silk/linen blends, slinky knits, crepe de chine, 3-4 ply silks, light denim, microfibers or wool crepe)
Cutting Line Patterns One-Seam Pants #31371
1-1 /2" wide Stretchrite Elastic sport elastic
100 percent cotton thread from Mettler
Schmetz 75/11 quilting needle
Ginger applique duck-billed scissors

Steps:

1. Determine the pant size and adjust the hips and crotch depth tape on the waist casing. A chart on the pattern (figure A) is used to determine the correct hip circumference, depth of crotch and length of the pants. This chart has been placed in the directions and on the straight and tapered pants patterns. The tissue pattern has only one piece with no side seams. In using the chart, the adjustments are easily made to make the pants fit the user. The instructions give step-by-step methods to a perfect-fitting pattern for each individual.

Tip: To determine the pants length and to ensure pants fall 1 inch from the ground, step on a tape measure at the 1-inch mark and measure up to your waist. When hemmed, pants will fall 1 inch from the floor.

2. After the adjustments are made to the pants pattern, the waist casing is taped to the pants tissue (figure B). This will reduce fabric bulk that would be created by seams in this area.

Tip: To determine if the fabric is both cross-grained as well as length-wise grained up, pull a thread and it should gather. Cut along the gathering line; this ensures the fabric is cross-grained up.

3. Cut out pattern pieces according to pattern directions and transfer placement and stitching lines to the fabric.

Pocket
The pocket is completed before the pants are stitched together.

1. A 10-1/2-inch strip of interfacing is fused to the wrong side of the pants at the grain line and along the grain line of the wrong side of the pocket. The pocket is pinned right sides together along the placement lines (figure C) and is sewn with very small stitches to the garment.

2. Cut through the middle of the pant leg to the center of the grain line to the point between the stitching lines (figure D) and serge the raw edges.

3. Press the pocket and turn it to the wrong side of the pants. Sew the opening in the casing closed, matching the stitching line of the pocket. Sew the top casing that had been cut open for this step, matching the stitching line in the pocket (figure E).

4. Press the two curves of the pocket pouch, pin and sew around the pouch. Serge the raw edges. Bar tack at the bottom of the opening on the right side of the garment.

Pants

1. Fold each leg in half, matching the inseam. Pin and stitch from the top of the crotch area to the hemline using a 5/8-inch seam allowance. The back inseam is placed on the feed dogs. This area has bias, and the feed dogs will help ease in the extra fabric.

2. Serge the seams and press toward the back.

3. Turn one leg right-side-out and place it inside the other (figure F). Sew the crotch seam, leaving a space open for the elastic insertion (casing) (figure G). Reinforce the crotch seam, serge and press.

4. Serge the top of the pants (waistband).

5. To form the casing, turn down the top of the pants 2-1/4 inches, stab pin (figure H) and press. Stitch one row of stitching using a presser foot away from the fold (figure I) and another 1-1/2 inches away from the first.

6. Attach elastic to a bodkin and insert into the casing. Using a zigzag stitch, stitch the ends of the elastic together (figure J). Distribute evenly around the waist. Tip: The elastic is usually 5" to 6" smaller than the pant waist circumference.

7. Sew two rows of stitching 1/2-inch apart through the elastic (figure K), stretching the elastic while sewing. The waist casing is placed on the ironing board while an iron (with a full head of steam) is hovered about 1/4 inch above the fabric. A burst of steam makes the gathers line up and draws the elastic back to the original size and shape.

Weighted rolled hem

This is a wonderful hem for sheer fabrics to add weight and strength to a garment.

1. Stitch a row of 1.5mm stitches 5/8 inch from the hem. The hem needs to be turned on the stitching line at this point at the ironing board and stitched again in the folded position. Trim away excess.

2. Roll up one more time and stitch again through all layers of the fabric as close to the fold as possible. There will be six threads (three from the top of the machine and three from the bobbin) in about a 1/16-inch fold. This is what gives the weight to the hem.

Tip: Use a straight-hole stitch plate and a single-hole presser foot. This will keep light fabrics from going down into the throat plate.