Getting the right fit from a pair of ready-to-wear pants you love may be easier than you think. Start by measuring the circumference of your favorite pants' leg bottom. Then go to the store. As you peruse the pattern books, look for a style that is similar to your favorite pair. If your favorite pant has pleats, don't choose a pant pattern with a flat front and darts, choose one with pleats. Look for a pant with a similar pant leg circumference as your favorite.
Pant leg circumference is listed on the back of the pattern envelope. If circumference is not also listed in the pattern book, pick out a couple of patterns and have the salesperson hand you the envelopes. Buy the one that is the closest to your desired circumference. Burda patterns are multi-sized and in my opinion have the best fit with the exception of the trouser pattern Vogue 7027 from Vogue's Today's Fit where the sizing block has been changed to fit real people. Buy the multi-sized pattern by the hip size that ranges from a 34-1/2-inch to 57-inch hip. Realistic at last!
Using a highlighter pen, outline your size according to your measurements on the pattern tissue. If your waist corresponds to one size but your hip measurement to another, smoothly grade from the cutting line at the waist to the hip cutting line. Multi-sized patterns make this alteration a snap. If you have a flat backside, outline two sizes smaller on the back inner leg. If your thighs are full, outline two sizes larger on the front inner leg.
Crotch Length
- To determine your crotch length, turn wrong side out the pair of pants you are trying to recreate.
- Slide one leg inside of the other so that the crotch curve is clearly visible.
- Outline the seam line of your favorite pair with chalk.
- Compare the length and shape of the front and back crotch of your favorite pant to the front and back pant pattern.
- Alter the pant pattern to mimic the bought pair allowing a one-inch seam allowance at the top of the pant. Don't be surprised if the front and the back crotch differ greatly. Some larger women have a crotch length that is four to six inches longer in back than front because they wear their pants under their tummy in front.
Tummy Alteration
If you have a rather large tummy, altering a pant pattern at the side seam is not always the answer. Since most of your fullness is in the tummy, why not add to the pattern exactly where you need it--in the tummy area? This will allow the pleats to stay closed.
- Take an accurate set of body measurements, the all important "tummy" measurement 2-1/2 inches down from the waistline.
- To this measurement add one inche to 1-1/2 inches for ease. Tummy measurement plus ease equals the amount you need in this area. Now you are ready to compare how much the pattern actually has.
- On the front pant pattern, fold out front pleats all the way to the crotch. Pin out darts in back and front if the pattern has no pleats.
- If the pant has a slant pocket, pin the side front in place matching the sewing line on the front to the pocket placement line on the side front.
- On the front pattern piece, measure down from the waistline seam 2-1/2 inches. Now measure across the pattern from center front to side seam. Do not include seam allowances or zipper placket allowance.
- Measure the back pattern piece in the same manner, from side seam to center back. Darts are folded out so that they are not included in the measurement.
- Add these two measurements together and multiply times two since each front and back pattern piece represents only half of the pant. Now compare what the pattern measured to your actual tummy measurement plus one inch to 1-1/2 inches of ease.
- The difference between the two is the amount we need to add for this pant to fit comfortably and be flattering over the tummy. If a total of three inches or less is needed, add half of this amount to each pant front. If your measurements indicate an addition of more than three inches total, I would suggest adding some to the front and some to the back. The amounts added do not have to be equal on front and back.
- Cut pattern section involving pleats away from pattern. Save to reposition later.
- Leaving the grain line intact, draw a line very close to the original position of the pleat closest to center front from the waistline of the pant to the bottom edge of the pant.
- Cut open the pattern along this vertical line from the waist to 1/4 inch away from the bottom edge of the pant. Slide a piece of paper under the pattern tissue.
- Spread the top of the pant open until you have the desired amount needed between the opening in the tummy area, in our example, one inch. Addition tapers to zero by the bottom of the pant.
- Reposition front pleats and back darts so that they are now in the middle of each piece, where they were initially before the spread.
- Cut out the pant with a one-inch seam allowance at side seams. Make up a test pair. Refine the fit including the length.
Get this pair right and the next pair will be effortless. Make alterations on the pattern. Stabilize the pattern against wear and tear by fusing it with a dry iron to medium-weight fusible webbing.
Resources Sew to Success
by Kathleen Spike (ISBN: 0935278176)
Coaching Works Inc.
PO Box 69264
Portland, OR 97201
USA
Phone: 503-417-1895
Fax: 503-417-1895
Email:
spike@coachingworksinc.com
URL:
www.CoachingWorksInc.com
Guests Kathleen Spike
Speaker, custom clothier and owner of Coaching Works Inc.
PO Box 69264
Portland, OR 97201
Phone: 503-417-1895
Fax: 503-417-1895
Email:
spike@coachingworksinc.com
URL:
www.CoachingWorksInc.com
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