Here's the story of how Ruddy found this look. "Wandering through the waterfront market in Marseilles, France, on a recent vacation, I saw a man wearing a fascinating pair of slacks. The pants were fully tailored front and back, but directly above each side seam, at the waist, was a deep, flat, V-shaped elastic insertion. I was so taken with this approach to adding comfort to trouser waists without spoiling the smooth elegance of a traditional waistband finish that I could barely wait to get home and try it out. These pants are the result, adapted to a woman's figure, and they've proven as comfortable as they are sleek."
Materials:
pants pattern with normal belted waistline, Unique pattern #5031, or pants to alter
2-1/2 yards (45" wide) or 1-1/2 yards (60" wide) pant-weight fabric
elastic wedges (cut from 6" elastic, 3-3/4" at the top and 1-3/8" at the
bottom)
7" zipper
thread
two buttons (1/2- to 3/4-inch size)
twill tape or fusible straight stay tape
soft fusible interfacing like Textured Weft
French curve ruler
pattern paper
See-Thru ruler
permanent felt marking pen and soap
Tip: If you own a finished pair of pants that is too tight in the waist, slit through the waistband above each side seam, open the side seam to a point 5-3/4" below the top of the waistband, fold back the raw edge of the waistband, pin the elastic wedge into place, and edgestitch.
Steps:
1. To create the elastic waist insert, mark (using soap as a marker) a right angle for the center. For the 2-1/2 inch measurement across the top, mark 1-1/4 inches on each side, adding 1/8-inch seam allowance for the bottom. Be sure to add seam allowances on each side (figure A) and cut out the elastic inserts. Tip: One yard of elastic should make six inserts.
2. Converting pants pattern:
a) For a pants pattern with a waistband, the waistband will be eliminated and an inset opening will be created in step #3.
b) The pattern requires cut-on fly facing. If it has sewn-on facing, convert to cut-on facing by pinning onto the pattern.
c) For inseam side pockets, convert to slanted pockets or eliminate pockets entirely.
3. To create the elastic inset opening, remove part of the pants pattern by measuring and marking new sewing guide lines at 1-1/4 inch at the waist, 5-7/8 inches down on the side seam, and allow for seam allowances (figure B). Do the same for the back pants pattern; this makes room for the elastic wedge insert (figure C) . Cut pattern pieces according to pattern instructions with the new side seam shape at the waist. Transfer the markings and darts to the fabric.
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