Today's Overalls

Sew Much More : Episode SMM-150 -- More Projects »
Host Susan Khalje demonstrates some of the techniques used to make contemporary overalls. But these aren't stiff denim overalls designed for a day of gardening--these overalls are made from a soft washed linen and are ever so much more comfortable and stylish. Paired with a white T-shirt and clogs, they're the perfect casual garment for spring to fall wear.

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Figure A

Materials:

Kwik Sew pattern
fusible interfacing
linen fabric
hardware (buckles, etc .)
thread
scissors

Note: Double topstitching will be used throughout this project to give the finished look to the overalls. Stitch two rows of topstitching for the double topstitching effect.

1. Layout and cut pattern. Transfer pattern markings according to pattern instructions and cut two bib pieces.

2. Fuse interfacing to the opening of the overall pant section (figure A), the back leg (figure B), and the wrong side of one of the bib pieces at the top edge and lower corners of the bib (figure C). Interfacing reinforces the hardware placement and pocket areas of the overalls.

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Figure B
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Figure C

3. Interface the pocket along the diagonal edge of pocket (figure D). Fold and press the interfacing (figure E).

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Figure D
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Figure E

Fold and press again on the fold line to prepare for double topstitching. Fold and press the perimeter of the pocket except the top edge (figure F).

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Figure F
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Figure G

4. Double topstitch the pocket (figure G) and pin the pocket to the front piece, lining up notches at waistline and outside leg (figure H). Double topstitch front and bottom edge. Then do the same for the other pocket.

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Figure H
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Figure I

5. Pin the fronts right sides together and stitch the crotch seam from the inside leg to the dot that is marked, then machine baste from the dot to the waist along the marked center front line. Press the seam allowances to one side.

6. To give the fly a sporty faux look, outline the faux fly with chalk (figure I) and topstitch on the left front through all of the layers. Once the first row is complete, topstitch again, and then double stitch the crotch seam, bartacking across the topstitching on the faux fly piece. Finish the faux fly by removing the basting stitch.

7. To finish the side opening with the interfacing extensions, fold and press the front facing along the fold line and stitch at the waist to keep the flap in place (figure J) for both sides of the upper corners of the front overall piece .

8. Hem the top edge of the pocket and fold and press the edges under. Mark the centerline on the pocket and pin the pocket to the bib piece (piece without the interfacing ). Double topstitch around the sides and bottom and also up the marked line to create two pockets.

9. Stitch the two bib pieces together. Trim the outside seams; then turn, press and double topstitch.

10. To attach the bib to the front of the overalls, pin the right side of the bib with the pocket stitched on the right side of the front piece at the waist and stitch. Once this is stitched into place, fold the raw edge of the bib facing under the seam allowance for the inside of the bib piece, pin and double topstitch.

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Figure J
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Figure K

11. The back pockets are double topstitched on, but there is no dividing line in the center. Then the back pieces are sewn together using the same double topstitching method used throughout all the seams of this garment.

12. Fold each back buckle piece on the fold line, right sides together, and stitch one end and the long side. Then trim and turn. Topstitch each piece, insert the buckle, pin and stitch into place.

13. For each of the strap pieces, pin two shoulder straps right sides together and stitch, leaving the notched end open. Trim the seam allowances and the corners, turn right side out and press. Double topstitch around the outer edges (figure K).

14. Pin the straps onto the back piece and stay stitch across the seam line (figure L).

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Figure L
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Figure M

15. Stitch the outer edge of the facing piece for the back, and pin it onto the back (on top of the straps already sewn) (figure M). Stitch in place. Trim the seam allowances and turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Finish by double topstitching (figure N). Tip: Serge edges as desired.

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Figure N

16. Fold side facing to the right side, stitch, trim and turn. Then turn the seam allowances for the armholes under and doublestitch into place.

17. Stitch the front and backs together in the same manner as the rest of the garment . Since these overalls will be opened and closed at the outside top of the legs to get them on and off, you want to add some strength there.

19. Seam the inside seam together with a simple straight stitch; no need to double topstitch here. Hem the legs to ankle length by folding the hem under and under again to cover the raw edge, and then stitch.

20. Stitch the buttonholes into the sides of the overalls. Add buttons and buckles to the straps according to the instructions on the package.

You can make these overalls in any length you like, from shorts to Capri pants.

Resources
Kwik-Sew pattern
Due to seasonal changes and new designs, the exact pattern seen on this show are often no longer available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
KWIK-SEW Pattern Company Inc.
Minneapolis, MN
Phone: 612-521-7651
Toll Free Phone: 888-594-5739
Email: USinfo@kwiksew.com
URL: www.kwiksew.com
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