Learn how to make a tailored placket for a man's sleeve. Here is a technique that is faster and looks more professional than the ones that come in a pattern. The placket goes two-thirds back on the sleeve and is usually about 3" long.
Steps:
- Cut the sleeve according to the pattern you are working from. Mark the wrong side of the sleeve fabric.
- Cut two plackets measuring 7" long x 4-1/2" wide with a point coming down one side about 1".
- Mark a long rectangle in the center of each as a sewing guide.
- Fuse interfacing onto the wrong side of the placket fabric.
- Find the back of the sleeve on the wrong side of the fabric. Line up the placket along the placement line determined by your pattern; you'll want the point of the packet going up into the sleeve. Match the right side of the placket to the wrong side of the sleeve and pin it down.
- Sew the placket onto the sleeve using the rectangular guide with medium stitches. About halfway up, switch to tiny stitches because you will be cutting into the packet very close.
- When you get the right angle of your rectangle, hand-walk the stitch two stitches across.
- Cut the middle of your rectangle, stopping about 1" from the end. Now, cut deep angles into the placket going toward the points of the rectangle.
- Press open the seams of the placket. At this point you won't continue to follow the markings of the pattern for the placket.
- Fold the short side of the placket without the point with the right side faces upward. Your fold should be a little larger than 5/8". Press it down.
- On the long side of the placket, fold in less than 5/8" to make it skinny side of the placket. Press it down.
- Turn sleeve over to the right side. Bring out all of the placket fabric through the vent in the sleeve. Fold the larger side of the placket under and pin it to the sleeve.
- Bring it over to the seam that you sewed earlier. It should meet the seam, not cover it. Fold the other side of the placket over to cover the seam. Pin it to the sleeve. At this point you can sew the placket to the sleeve, or you can wait and add the cuff of the sleeve.
- When you sew the placket, sew the bottom part first, then sew the top part, stopping at the point. Here you can either fold the point under and stitch it across it to make it a square or you can make it pointed. Do this by folding the raw edges down one way, then fold again in the opposite direction to create the point. Pin it and continue topstitching using a regular stitch.
- As you round the end of either the square or pointed tail of the placket, sew up the other side about 1", then stitch across it to complete that side of the placket.
- Give the placket a good shot of steam from the iron and pound it with the tailor clapper. You can also use a placket down the front of a garment in place of the zippers or buttons. Just attach one button at the top or leave it open for the V-neck look.
Resources Power Sewing
by Sandra Betzina
This title is out of print. Consult local libraries and used bookstores for copies.
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