By Susan Khalje
DIY--Do It Yourself Network
A client came to me recently for something to wear to her son's wedding. I had made her daughter's wedding dress a number of years ago, as well her mother-of-the-bride ensemble. We put our heads together, and came up with what I think will be a very elegant look for her, and I'd like to tell you about it.
J. liked the idea of wearing black and white for a formal evening wedding, and it will show off her end-of-summer tan and her dark hair. A white blouse and a black skirt is a pretty basic idea, so I tried to come up with the right combination of style and fabrication to make it special. J. like the idea of a portrait collar, so I searched my pattern stash for a blouse pattern I love — McCall's 4095.
It has a deep collar, set wide on the shoulders, and it wraps and fastens to the side, at the waist, with loops and buttons. I decided to use satin-faced organza for the blouse (imagine a fabric that's a cross between organza and satin — crisp, shiny, fairly light-weight), though I think I'll use ordinary organza for the three-quarter length straight sleeves.
I like the contrast of the fabrics, and I think the inevitable wrinkling at the elbow will be less visible with regular organza. I always make a muslin copy of the garment first — and I added a number of darts to snug up the fit of the blouse. Wrap blouses always have a sort of casual look, but I wanted this one to fit a little more closely so it would stay in place during a long day.
I found another great pattern for her skirt — Vogue 7524. It will be flattering for J., and for just about anyone. Its seven panels flare into a bell, or trumpet shape, and as J. wants some sort of back interest, I'll be able to insert another fabric in the center back seam.
For the body of the skirt, J. and I chose a heavy taffeta called gros de Londres. I think it will hold the shape of the skirt nicely, without the heaviness (or the shine) of satin. I'll underline it with silk organza, and line it with silk crepe de chine. I made it up first in muslin, so I could get the shape just right - the taffeta is stiff, and will hold its shape well, but I don't want there to be too much skirt.
As for the center back panel, I think I'll use a piece of black silk chiffon. I'll cut it into a half-circle, and insert it into the center back seam, starting about 15" below the waist. My only concern is that the light-weight chiffon might sink into the folds of the skirt, so I'll use an underlay beneath it to make sure it can't disappear.
The final touch will be a large red silk rose, which will be pinned at the waist, on the left where the blouse overlaps and fastens. I've asked J. to bring me her lipstick, so we can get the perfect color match. I think she's going to be a very elegant mother-of-the-groom!
(Susan Khalje is the author of Bridal Couture — Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear, from Krause Publications. Contact her at skhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, MD 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or DIYNetwork.com.)
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