Beginning Heirloom Sewing

Tips:

• Always clean the lint from under the feed dog before beginning to sew. The bobbin cover plate will either pop out, or you may have to remove a screw to take it out. Consult your owner's manual for your particular machine. Lint collects and can ruin the seam in fine fabrics.
• Change the needle. Always change the needle before sewing on fine fabrics such as Swiss batiste. A burr on the needle can pull threads in these delicate fabrics. Try a 60/8 H or a 65/9 H for heirloom sewing.
• Always use fine threads on fine fabrics. Read the end of the spool for thread recommended for "fine sewing and machine embroidery."
• To create a successful garment always read the pattern instruction sheet. The instruction sheet will tell you the correct size for seam allowances, etc. Keep in mind that adjusting the seam sizes will change the way the garment fits.

Techniques
French Seam

1. The French seam is a seam within a seam. Begin with wrong sides of the fabric together. Stitch using a short stitch length (2 to 2.5 length) 1/8 inch from the edge.
2. Trim to a scant 1/8 inch if necessary and make a smooth edge.
3. Press while sewing. Open fabric and press on both sides. Do not leave small pleats on the seam line.
4. Turn the fabric so the right sides are together keeping the sewn seam on the edge. Sew again using a 1/8 inch seam. Press.

Stitching Lace Insertions
Some laces have a definite right side, while others do not. Determine the side you want to use as the right side, and use it throughout the garment. Lightly spray starch and press all laces. Be careful not to stretch the lace while pressing.

• For lace with heavier heading, place lace pieces one on top of the other as you would two pieces of fabric that you were going to seam. Set the machine at a 2.5 length and 2.5 width. Zigzag the seam together, covering the heading of the lace and sewing off the edge. This will create a small seam on the back. Press laces open.
• For lace with narrow heading, butt the two pieces of lace side by side. Set the machine for a zigzag stitch with 2.5 length and 2.5 width and stitch the pieces together.

Stitching Rolled Edge & Lace

• Place the lace edging a scant 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabrics, right sides together. Set the machine on zigzag with a 2.5 length and a 4.0 width. Sew within the stitch, covering the heading of the lace and going off the fabric with the swing of the needle. This will cause the fabric to roll over the heading of the lace to achieve the desired effect.

Handlooms
A handloom is a 2 inch strip of fabric with an embroidered design down the center. Handlooms can be purchased already embroidered or you can make your own.

1. Cut a strip of fabric on the crosswise grain approximately 2 inches to 2-1/2 inches wide.
2. Fold the fabric down the center and finger press to form a visible crease for the embroidery.
3. Place a water-soluble stabilizer on the back of the fabric.
4. Select a pattern preprogrammed in your machine. Place a machine embroidery needle in the machine. Use machine embroidery thread on the top and a fine white thread on the bobbin.
5. Stitch the design down the center of the fabric using the crease made in step 2 as your guide.

Guests
Annie Wells
Tailor, Treasures of the Past
Classic design patterns are available from Annie Wells.
530 Bellevue Rd.
Nashville, TN 37221-3429
Phone: 615-646-4123
Also in this Episode

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-703
•	Beginning Heirloom Sewing