Having clothes that fit is one of the big reasons people sew, but it's also one of the biggest problems faced when sewing. Clothes that don't fit properly won't hang right, so it's important to be armed with knowledge before altering. Before you start altering sizes you should know that:
1) Pattern sizes don't relate to ready-to-wear sizes and
2) Patterns run differently - some by measurement, some by size.
Before you begin sewing, here's how to properly record your measurements.
- High bust - begin measuring high under the arm and flat across the chest, pulling taught
- Full bust - across the fullest part of the bust
- Waist measurements - around your waist
- Tummy measurement - This measurement isn't usually on patterns, but it's very important. Tie a cord around your waist. Then, drop down approximately 2-1/2 inches to three inches from the cord and measure around your tummy. Also record how far down from the cord you dropped so that you can do the same on the pattern.
- Hip - always measure the fullest part of the hip
- Back waist - start at the bone at the base of your neck and measure all the way down to your waist To determine what pattern will be best, go by your high bust measurement. Say you measure 38" in your high bust, you'll need a size 16 pattern. However, you are going to need to make some adjustments. Follow this chart.
*You are dividing by four because you have two side seams and two pieces that meet.
Adding to the Hips
Find the area for the hips on the pattern. Going down one side of the pattern, add 1-1/2 inches all the way down the pattern. Working from hips to waist, curve back into the waist on the pattern. Repeat on the other side of the pattern. Adding to the Tummy
To determine how much room the pattern has at the abdomen, fold pattern at center from waist to hem, and pin any darts. Then, drop down the side seam three inches. Now, seam allowance away from seam and measure across the front of the pattern. Do the same for the back of the pattern. Add the two measurements together and multiply by two to get the total allowance for the tummy.
Sew Perfect host Sandra Betzina's rule is "you + two." You don't want the tummy to be tight, so allow two inches for ease. To do this, add a little at the side and/or take a little out of each dart.
Back Waist Line
Turn to the back of the pattern package and follow the instructions for lowering or raising the waistline.
Bodice
To add 1/2 inch at the bust, 1/2 inch at the waist, and 1-1/2 inches at the hip, sketch in extra room for all three points to add fullness to the pattern. Do this to the front and back of the pattern.
Armhole
If you've added to the front and back, do the same to the sleeve.
Lowering Darts
How do you know if the dart is too high? Measure yourself from top of shoulder to center of the bust. Go back to the pattern and find the dot on the pattern near the dart - this is called the apex. Measure from the top of the pattern's shoulder to the apex. Say the pattern is 10-1/4 inches and you need 11 inches, lower the apex by drawing another dot 3/4 inches down. Lower the dart 3/4 inches also by cutting out the dart and original apex and sliding them on top of the apex you just drew. Fill any holes in the pattern with paper.
Ready to Wear
If you have purchased a blouse that you love and have found a similar pattern, before you start cutting your pattern, follow these steps.
- Measure your ready-to-wear blouse from center of neck in back all the way down to the bottom of the blouse.
- Turn to the back of the pattern and look for finished length. There might be a big difference between these two measurements. You can add up to two inches to the length of the blouse pattern without changing the look.
- Next, measure the width of crucial areas, such as the hips and stomach, on the ready-to-wear blouse. Measure the pattern to determine if any room needs to be added
Resources McCall's pattern
Due to seasonal changes and new designs, the exact McCall's brand pattern numbers seen on this show are often no longer available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
McCall's Pattern Company
Consumer Service
11 Penn Plaza
New York, NY 10001
USA
Toll Free Phone: 800-782-0323
Email:
consumerservice@mccallpattern.com
URL:
www.mccall.com
veil and wedding dress patterns - Butterick/Vogue
Due to seasonal changes and new designs, the exact Butterick/Vogue brand pattern numbers seen on this show are often no longer available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
Butterick / Vogue
Website:
www.butterick.com
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