Bustline Solutions

Regardless of style, color or fabric, a garment must fit properly in the chest area to be attractive. Here are some tips on how to make that happen.

Reducing a Pattern

1. Determine how much you need to get rid of in the pattern. The shoulder seam of the garment should sit on the joint in your shoulder. Measure that distance from your neck, then measure the pattern front.
2. Draw a line in the middle of the shoulder down to the underarm. Then draw another line from the underarm seam to the line you just drew, forming an "L."
3. Cut the line extending from the underarm seam and fold out half of what you want removed from the pattern. Fold out only half because you are going to take from both sides of the front. This will make the armhole longer. Redraw the armhole to smooth it out.
4. Adjust the sleeve pattern by adding the same amount you folded out to the sleeve front.
5. When sewing, you will want to run an easeline across the back so it will match the front. If you have taken a lot out of the front, you might want to add darts to your back.

Altering Bust Darts

Changing dart location:

1. Determine where the bust dart should be. Do this by measuring from the top of your shoulder to the bust point.
2. Find the end of the bust dart and mark an inch out. This is where the bust point is.
3. Then measure from the bust point on the pattern to the top of the shoulder. Don 't forget to stop before the seam allowance.
4. Decide where you need to make the bust point on the pattern, and mark it.
5. Cut out the entire bust dart and reposition it in line with the appropriate bust point.
6. Fill in the pattern with some tape, and sketch in the seam.

Changing dart width:

• If you are small-busted, you will need to make the bust dart smaller. Decrease the dart by 1/4" to 1/2" on each side. Then fold out 1/4" on the front bodice of the pattern.
• If you are large-busted, you will need to make the dart larger. Increase the dart by 1", adding 1/2" on each side. Then draw a line across the bust area and cut the pattern across. Add 1" to the pattern, and sketch the side seam in at its fullest point.

Princess Seams:

1. If you are small-busted, you will need to make additions to the pattern. Find the princess seam line and redraw the curve, flattening it out a bit.
2. Then in the front bust area of the pattern, fold out approximately 1/2" from the pattern.
3. If you are large-busted, add some to the curve of the princess seam. Bring the curve out about 1/2". Then in the front bust area of the pattern, add 1/2" length to the pattern.

Resources
No Time to Sew
by Sandra Betzina (ISBN: 0875967442)
Click here to order this title.
Power Sewing
95 Fifth Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94118
US
Phone: 415-386-0440
E-mail: karie@sandrabetzinaonline.com
Website: www.sandrabetzina.com
Also in this Episode

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-401
•	Bustline Solutions