Try this technique with pants, skirts or shorts to create a tailored look in front but a comfortable elasticized waistband in back. The trick is to change the pattern slightly to accommodate the elastic.
First, measure find your true waistband measurement. Many people's waists actually expand as the day goes on so measure your waist in the morning and again in the evening to determine how much elastic you'd like to add to the back band. Elasticizing the back waistband means you'll need more fabric than the back of a tailored pattern designates. To gain extra fabric in the back of a pants, skirt or shorts pattern and to create an elastic back waistband, try these techniques:
- If the pattern has back darts, eliminate them by covering the darts with paper or simply ignore them. This will add the widest width of the dart measurement to the fabric at the waist.
- Gain more fabric by widening the side seams at the waist. Side seams at the waist typically curve in toward the waist. Tape the pattern to paper at the waist. Start at the hip of the pattern and sketch in a straight side seam beside the curved one. Cut new pattern outline from paper. This can gain 3/4 inch to 1 inch at the waist.
- If more fabric is needed, use the side seam technique to add fabric at the center back by straightening it. Usually, eliminating back darts and adding to the side seam will gain the enough fabric to elasticize the back waistband.
- Since the waistband pattern will need to be increased, try this idea instead of using the waistband pattern. Measure your waist and add 6 inches. Cut the waistband on the lengthwise of the fabric, 3-1/2 inches wide by your waist size plus 6 inches.
- When assembling fabric pieces, sew the center back seam first. Press seam open. Line up one end of the waist band with the side seam of the pant back, right sides together. Sew waistband onto the pant back and cut off excess. Save excess waistband for the front of the pants.
- To determine length of elastic needed, measure your waist and divide measurement in half. Subtract 3/4 inch from this measurement. Cut elastic to this size.
- To stitch elastic in back waistband, fold right side of waistband onto right side of pant back. Position the bottom of elastic band on seam of waistband and pant back. Stretch elastic from end to end of waistband and pin at each end. Sew elastic in place using a zigzag stitch, pulling lightly on elastic as you stitch.
- Stitch a length of thick interfacing to pant front waistband so that it hold shape in the same manner as the pant back waist.
- Pin one side of the pant front and back together and straight stitch to secure. Press side seam open and serge to finish seam edges. Serge waistband edges.
- To finish front waistband ends, fold elastic up and straight stitch vertically across elastic and fabric, 1/8 inch from the existing seam edge.
- To finish waistband, turn pants and waistband right side out. Fold waistband over elastic and "stitch in the ditch" along the waistband seam on the right side of the fabric.
