Linen Pajamas

Materials:

pale, finely woven, sheer handkerchief linen
low-contrast, second color or linen
pajama pattern
coordinating thread
iron
sewing machine

Steps:

1. Pre-wash and dry the fabric as many as eight to 10 times until it becomes soft and rumpled, instead of wrinkled. Press the material.

2. Sew a flat-felled seam to ensure a smooth, comfortable inside finish (figure A). Sew the first seam a normal 5/8 inches wide, but with wrong sides together (figure B). Press the seam open, then to one side, usually toward the back on a pants leg, shirt sleeve or side seam. Trim the lower seam allowance, fold the second seam allowance in half, press it flat, and topstitch along the fold.

3. Cut a block of contrasting fabric for the facing, cutting the pattern accurately at the neck, front, and lower edges, and wide enough for your applique design.

4. Apply spray starch to temporarily stiffen the fabric for the shirt fronts and facings, using several light coats rather than one heavy one. To prevent sticking, allow the starch to soak in, then press for a crisp finish.

5. Sew the facing so that it is turned to the outside instead of hiding it on the inside. The facing finishes the neck, front and lower edges of the pajama shirt. Sew the facing to the garment front, trim seam allowances, clip corners, and turn the facing to the outside, creating crisp corners.

6. Draw the desired applique shape on the facing in pencil (figure C). Cut out the design in paper and try it on, to make sure you like it.

7. Add a layer of tear-away stabilizer on the wrong side of the front, beneath the areas that will be stitched.

8. Zigzag stitch next to the pencil line, inside the curve, using a stitch 1.5 millimeter wide and long.

9. Trim the facing fabric along the pencil line.

10. Satin stitch smoothly to cover the zigzag and cut edge, using all-cotton, machine -embroidery thread and a size 70/10 needle (figure D). To follow curves smoothly, stop frequently with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and adjust the angle of the fabric slightly, then continue.

11. To tie the pajama pieces together, use decorative stitching in the contrasting color to topstitch the waistband of the pants and all the hems.