Working with Lace

Lace characteristics

Alencon lace is a floral motif on a net background outlined in silken cord, threads or whiskers on the lace (figure A).

Chantilly lace is a soft lace that can be embellished (figure B) and ruffles nicely.

Guipere lace is embroidered on a foundation that is later dissolved leaving only motifs. The pattern is usually directional and easy to cut apart (figure C) and embellished.

Pressing lace

Press lace prior to using it. Position it face down on a terry towel with a silk organza pressing cloth on top of it and press (figure D).

Tips:

- Waxed paper may be used for pressing lace to restore the quality.

- Using spray starch, spray on and wait a couple of minutes to soak into the fibers before pressing, and use a pressing cloth.

- Be careful not to use too much heat and/or steam.

Lace layout

Begin with a full set of pattern pieces in muslin and mark (figure E) the top edges and side seams, etc. of the pattern. Use wide seam allowances.

Lace cutting

Position lace on top of muslin fabric and pin. Allow for generous seam allowances and use small sharp scissors to cut the lace. Double check lace pieces against the border layout. Overlay or piece the lace where lace has been cut or where lace doesn't match the pattern.

Lace marking

Mark the fabric underneath; join the two and then treat the layers as one piece of fabric. Pin the lace to the muslin and thread trace with a contrasting thread all the important seam lines (figure F).

Lace border

Line up the apex of the scallops (figure G) (where the scallops come to a point) and place right at the edge of the fabric. Pin (figure H) and, using a narrow zigzag stitch, stitch the lace onto the fabric or hand stitch. Press to flatten.

Shape borders around curves

For a convex curve: pin at apex and shape around fabric to flatten the lace. Trim the netting, trying to avoid cutting through the cords, and then sew by machine or by hand.

For a concave curve: cut into lace and spread it out (figure I). If the hole is too large, patch it with a little piece of lace.

Create invisible darts on lace

Find a leading or a corded edge, overlap the lace, and pin and hand-stitch into place (figure J). Trim away the excess lace (figure K).

Side seams

Side seams often need to be pieced. Overlap the lace, pin, hand-stitch and cut away the excess lace.