Lycra blends are perfect candidates for a tube skirt, a great companion for a loose over-blouse, sweater or bodysuit. Since the fabric has stretch you will only need one inch of ease. Use the fabric with the greatest stretch going around the body, whether that is lengthwise or crosswise. Because the skirt is so narrow, we'll put a 9" slit in the center back. Look for a Lycra blend which is wide - 45" or more - so that you will need only one fabric length and can eliminate all but the center back seam. If your hips are larger than 39", you will need two fabric lengths, which will result in a center back and side seams.
- What length do you need to cut your skirt? Determine the length you want the finished skirt to be and add 1 1/2" for the bottom hem and 2" for the elastic casing. I wanted a finished length of 36" so I cut my skirt 39 1/2". Since the fabric was 54" wide, only one skirt length was needed, but I was glad I had purchased 1 1/4 yards of fabric because I lost quite a bit of length in the preshrinking of my stretch denim.
- How wide will you cut the skirt? To your actual hip measurement, add 1" of ease and 4" for a wide, center back topstitched seam. For a 38" hip, cut the skirt 43" wide.
- Preshrink fabric and cut a fabric width equal to the measurement of your hip plus 5" and a fabric length equal to the desired finished length plus 3 1/2" as explained earlier.
- Seam center back with a 2" seam allowance, stopping the seam 10 1/2" from skirt bottom to allow for slit and hem. Reinforce the end of the slit by sewing with small stitches over a 1" length of twill tape. Press the 2" seam open, then turn under 1" of the 2" seam allowance so the raw edges are enclosed. Press and pin.
- In the area of the slit, reduce the seam allowance to 1 1/2", tapering back to the original 2" seam allowance at the top of the slit. This will give extra fabric to this area filling in the slit, so that it will hang closed rather than open. In the area of the slit, turn under just 1/2" of the seam allowance to hide the raw edge.
- If your serger is already threaded, serge off 1/2" on both ends of the tube. If not, turn under 1/2" on both ends of the tube. On the top end of the tube, turn under 1 1/2" for the elastic casing. Press and trim out center back seam allowances within the casing.
- Topstitch casing into place 1/8" from folded edge. Leave opening for elastic. Cut non-roll elastic in a measurement equal to your waist measurement minus 5". Insert elastic into casing. Butt elastic together, and zigzag stitch over a piece of scrap fabric to join. Close opening at waistband.
- On hem edge, near the slit, turn under a 1" hem, enclosing the raw edge. Pin into place. Turn back pressed fold for slit. Topstitch center back seam, slit and hem in one slick operation.
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by Sandra Betzina (ISBN: 1880630141)
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