Spring Sheath Dress
Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-627 -- More Projects »
Learn how to perfect a sleeveless sheath pattern and line a sleeveless dress. Find a similar pattern to begin this project.
Altering a Pattern
If you want a rounded neckline and your pattern has a V-neck, tape paper underneath the existing neckline of the pattern, then draw on a neckline that's low or high enough so it doesn't compete with your accessories (figure A). Sheath dresses are usually form fitting, so you want your curves to match up with the dress curves. Shorten or lengthen the waist by cutting the pattern if necessary. To avoid tightness in the tummy, add three inches to your waist measurement. Make any measurement adjustments to the pattern before beginning, then cut out the altered pattern (figure B).
Lining a Sheath Dress
- Cut out two dresses from the pattern--one in the lining fabric and one in the dress fabric.
- One at a time, sew each of fabric cutouts together at the shoulder.
- Put the lining and fabric on top of one another, right sides together, starting at the shoulder seams (figure C).
Trim the lining around the armholes about 1/8 inch (figure D) so the lining doesn't show when wearing the dress. Pin the lining to the dress fabric. Sew the lining to the fabric around the armholes and neckline. Use smaller stitches, sewing through a piece of selvage at the neck. Clip about every inch around the neck and armholes. Press the seams open all the way around the neck and armholes (figure E). Trim the excess seam. Pull the fabric right side out through the shoulders--one half from one shoulder and the second half from the second shoulder (figure F). Baste all the way around the armholes and neckline of the dress so that the fabric overlaps the lining on the outside of the dress.
Press the outside of the dress at the neck and arms, hitting each area with a clapper after pressing (figure G). Remove the basting. Sew the back seam of the dress by matching up the dress fabric, leaving the lining free. Sew a zipper along the center back seam. Sew the dress seams together and the lining seams separately. Pin them together and sew the bottom of the dress straight on by the armholes, continuing on to the lining part (sew through the shoulder). To hem the lined dress, serge the bottom of the fabric, and sew an ease line into the bottom of the dress before sewing the hem. Turn the hem under and press it all the way around. The lining should fall to the top of the finished length of the lining. Fold down the top of the hem about 1/4 inch and sew back and forth from the hem to the dress to get an invisible hem. Turn up the hem and sew it by machine. Stitch in the ditch under each arm to secure the lining.
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