Lamb Suede Skirt

Materials:

pattern such as Style #1768 or similar paneled elastic waist skirt - The Style pattern has six panels. The pattern featured is a self-draft with eight panels.
godets (added for extra flair at the hem) - optional
suede leather - to determine how much is needed, multiply the pattern's 45-inch fabric requirement by 11.25. Add 15 percent to this amount to allow for flaws and irregularly shaped skins
thread to match in polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester--do not use 100-percent cotton thread
3/4-inch non-roll elastic
1-1/2 yards silk charmuse for lining
Schmetz leather needles - 90/14 NTW
Schmetz lining needle - 70/10
Teflon-coated presser foot
rotary cutter and mat
binder clips
permanent marker
wallpaper roller
Barge permanent contact cement
stain repellent
Wiggle Weight flexible pattern weights
24-inch seam stick - optional

Steps:

1. Establish direction of nap by running hand along suede in lengthwise directions of fabric, rub fingers on fabric to determine the grain direction (figure A) for the pattern layout.

2. Position one pattern piece on skin using with-nap layout. The next pattern piece can shift up to 25 percent without losing the nap layout. Pattern piece may be larger than the suede skins. If this occurs, separate the pattern into two sections with a diagonal line, rather than a straight line, including a 1/2-inch seam allowance (figure B).

3. Using flexible pattern weights to secure fabric (figure C), rotary-cut the suede fabric on a cutting mat.

4. Mark match point for godet with a permanent marker on pattern piece where godets match.

5. Protect fabric from stains with stain repellent. Test first to make sure the product you use doesn't discolor the suede. Let dry.

6. Use small binder clips to hold fabric panels together. Do not use pins. Reduce presser foot pressure to a four--some machines do this automatically. Using a Teflon-coated presser foot and 90/14 leather needle, sew all eight panels together with a 10 to 12 length stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Do not backstitch. Tie off ends with a square knot. Finger-press seam open and roll with a wallpaper roller (figure D) Cement seam allowances with light application of Barge cement and a cotton swab--don't use too much as the cement will stain the suede. Roll again with the wallpaper roller.

7. Join panels together to match point for godet, and sew in godet.

8. Join body and side seams of silk lining together. Remember to change the needle and machine settings for sewing on silk lining. Lining is cut to knee length with a 1/4-inch waist edge seam allowance and a one-inch hem seam allowance. Turn up hem edge 1/2 inch, press; turn up another 1/2 inch and press. Stitch close to turned edged using edgestitching foot.

9. Using leather settings, clip skirt to lining with binder clips--right sides together at the waist edge. Machine baste 1/4 inch from cut edge. Lightly press seam allowance toward lining.

10. Join ends of 3/4-inch non-roll elastic to fit. Make it a bit smaller as the suede tends to stretch the elastic. Fold down 1-1/4 inch waist seam allowance over elastic and clip with large binder clips to hold in place. Stitch in the ditch with the lining face up. Tie off thread ends and clip or thread ends through a needle and pull between skirt and lining. Distribute fullness evenly.