Embellished Zippers

Materials:

sewing machine
needle
thread
beeswax
dress pattern
zipper
embellishment thread
beads
sequins
pearls

Steps:

1. Place the bodice pieces on the bias (figure A) and mark the grain lines.

2. Cut out the underlining bodice pieces and pin together. Flip to the other side, smooth out the fabric, flip back, and baste the bodice pieces together (figure B).

3. Stitch the neck and the armhole edges (figure C), then trim. Understitch the lining as far as possible. Turn the lining to the inside by pulling back sections through the shoulders, then press. Open out the lining, and stitch the front and back together at the sides, continuing across the lining.

4. Once the lining is stitched together at the sides, turn the lining down, and baste the lower raw edges. Stitch the front band and the back band sections together at the sides. Pin the band onto the bodice, and stitch. Once the stitching is finished trim and press the seam toward the band.

5. For the skirt, stitch darts in the skirt front and back, and press toward the center. Stitch the skirt together in the back and at the sides.

6.Stitch the lining in the same way as the skirt and baste them together at the upper raw edges. Pin the skirt to the band on the bodice, and stitch. Trim and press the seam toward the band.

7. Hand baste the organza strip to the fold line (figure D).

8. Coat the thread with beeswax.

9. To put the zipper in the dress, use pins to mark the stitch placement (figure E). Use a backstitich to put the zipper into the dress (figure F).

10. Embellish the zipper at the stitches. Try one of these four ways to embellish the zipper:

- Stitch pearls (figure G) on either side of the zipper.

- Embellish with three beads at each embellishment point (figures H & I).

- Embellish with sequins and with seed beads on the top of sequins (figure J).

- Embellish with an embroidery stitch (figure K).

11. To finish off the lining, pin the band lining to the band on the inside, and slipstitch over seams and ends to zipper tape.

12. Sew hook and eye on above the zipper. French tack the lower edge of the dress to finish the hem.