Want to add a little touch of class to an ordinary straight skirt? Here's how to create a scalloped hem and overskirt from a straight skirt pattern. Start with almost any straight skirt pattern and then make a template for the scallops. This technique can also be used for a neckline, down the front opening of a blouse, or around the hem of a shirt.
Materials:
sewing machine
measuring tape
straight skirt pattern
copy of the skirt pattern
tracing wheelcraft paper
fashion fabric
saucer or other round tracing tool
zipper
Steps:
1. Since making the scallops will determine the length as well as decorate the hemline, it's important to establish exactly where they'll go both on the under layer, which is the full skirt, and the over layer, the shorter skirt. Tape the front and back of the copy of the skirt pattern together at the side seam so you can draw on it. Roughly draw the overskirt on so you can see what it looks like.
2. Determining the scallop placement for both the overskirt and underskirt is really arbitrary. The scallops on the skirt here are about 4-1/4 inches wide and one inch deep, and there are nine of them around the hem of the underskirt. On the overskirt, they are the same proportions, but there are 13 of them that work around the skirt. In the front, the overskirt is about four inches shorter than the underskirt at the front center. Establish a baseline (figure A). Once that has been established, the number of scallops and their size and placement can be determined. First you need to make a rough sketching and here are some factors to consider.
- When determining the number of scallops, it may be easier to work in centimeters rather than inches allowing for easier division.
- An odd number of scallops is better because it allows for a scallop in the center and two scallops meeting at the back.
- The scallops should not be too shallow or too deep. Shallow scallops won't look like scallops and deep scallops will appear like flaps.
- The size of the scallops can be determined by dividing the circumference of the skirt by the number of scallops.
- Tools to use to help you get a good scallop shape (saucer, coffee lid, etc.)
3. Draw the scalloped edge on the pattern with the tool of your choice (figure B).
4. Mark the fabric, on the back, one layer for the underskirt, one layer for the overskirt, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel (figure C).
5. Cut the scallops out roughly or leave a straight line, using the traced marks as a guide. Sew the underskirt side seams and center back seam (figure D). Repeat with the lining layers.
6. Press the seams of the over and under skirt. Placing right sides together, with the marked layer on top, sew the scallops. Use a small stitch length.
7. Trimming, clipping, and pressing are important to get clean scalloped edges. After the scallops are sewn, trim the excess fabric away, down to about 3/8 inch, then clip into each apex as far as you can. Sandwich press the seam allowances open carefully and slowly, using your fingers--protected--underneath to support the curved edges of the scallop as you go (figure E).
8. Clip and turn the underskirt and overskirt. The skirt is now ready to be pressed again. Turn the skirt layers to the right side, and press again from this side. Favor the seamline so that it rolls just to the inside of the garment.
9. Line up all of the layers of the skirt at the waistline, each of the two layers hand basted together. Using the underskirt, put the zipper in. It is best to put it in by hand. You can put the zipper in by machine, but it would be very visible. If you were to put in an invisible zipper, you would have to do that before the center back seam was sewn.
10. Line up the layers at the waistline, zipper in the underskirt, but not the lining. Align the layers carefully to prevent any bagging out at the bottom or pulling, and hand-baste the two layers of each skirt together along the top edge.
11. Fell stitch the lining to the zipper tape (figure F). Join the layers together along the waistline and put the waistband on the skirt.
12. Finish with hook and eyes.
Resources McCall's pattern
Due to seasonal changes and new designs, the exact McCall's brand pattern numbers seen on this show are often no longer available. Visit your local fabric store for similar patterns.
McCall's Pattern Company
Consumer Service
11 Penn Plaza
New York, NY 10001
USA
Toll Free Phone: 800-782-0323
Email:
consumerservice@mccallpattern.com
URL:
www.mccall.com
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