Fabric Repair

Materials:

fusible bonding web with paper backing for apparel
matching fabric scraps*
sewing ham or sleeve roll
scissors
thread
press cloth
sewing machine

*Tip: If no matching fabric scraps are available, scavenge patch material from the garment to be repaired. Look at pocket bags or the area under a patch pocket, hem allowances, the upper area of deep pleat underlaps, and facings.

Under patches
Steps:

1. Trim around the hole as little as possible to remove frayed, discolored or burned areas (figure A).

2. Cut a patch of matching fabric a minimum of 1/2 inch larger than the hole all around. Try to match any patterns.

3. Place the hole area of the garment wrong side up on a tailor's ham (figure B), sleeve roll or ironing board.

4. Cut a piece of paper-backed bonding web the size of the patch piece of fabric.

5. Center the fusible web (paper side up) over the hole. Iron around the hole (using only the tip of the iron), being careful to avoid the hole itself so the fusible web doesn't stick to your ironing board.

6. Allow the area to cool briefly and remove the paper backing. Trim the fusible web from inside the hole.

7. Center the fabric patch wrong side up over the web, matching any patterns.

8. Cover with a press cloth and fuse according to manufacturer instructions.

Over patches
Steps:

1. Working on the right side of the fabric, trim the frayed or affected area.

2. Cut a piece of matching fabric larger than the hole, matching any patterns.

3. Fuse the paper-backed bonding material to the wrong side of the patch.

4. Remove the paper backing and trim the patch to cover the hole, with about a 1/2-inch margin all around.

4. On the right side of the garment, center the patch over the hole, web side down, matching any patterns.

5. Cover with a press cloth and fuse.

Darning
Steps:

1. To darn by hand, sew a small running stitch closely around the hole's perimeter to stabilize it (figure C).

2. Starting about 1/2 inch from the hole's edge, stitch at right angles from the perimeter towards the hole's center. Draw the thread over the hole to the other side, and continue to stitch another 1/2 inch on the opposite side. In this manner, cover the hole with closely spaced rows of parallel stitches, drawing the thread across the open area.

3. Turn your work 90 degrees. Stitch through the perimeter as before, but instead of "jumping" over the hole, use your needle to weave under and over the first set of threads. Repeat with finely spaced parallel rows of stitches and weaving. These finely spaced rows will form a web of fabric and fill in the hole.

Darning with patches
Steps:

1. Apply an under patch or over patch with fusibles as described above.

2. Either by hand or by machine, use a short straight stitch or zigzag to sew parallel rows of closely spaced stitches over the entire hole and patch area (figure D).

3. Turn your work 90 degrees and sew additional closely spaced rows of stitches at right angles to the first rows (figure E).

4. If desired, sew more rows on both diagonals.

Mending holes in lace
Materials:

matching lace motif or pattern*
hand-sewing thread (preferably silk, waxed with beeswax)

*Tip: If the tear is on one motif, cut a matching motif from a scrap. If the tear is in between motifs or covers more than one motif, cut a scrap around as many matching motifs as needed to cover the tear. If no matching lace is available, cut a motif or motifs from a lace with a similar color, design, and scale.

Steps:

1. Center the patch motif over the torn area and pin or hand-baste it in place .

2. Closely slipstitch the motif by hand all around the edges.

3. If desired, carefully trim away the torn motif from the wrong side, close to the slipstitches.