Vintage Garment Details

Materials:

Neue Mode #22422, View A shirt pattern
cotton shirting fabric
thread
needle
scissors

Collar

1. Begin with basic shirt pattern with a stand or band collar.

2. To alter the collar, create a tracing of the original pattern and elongate (lengthen ) the collar point by twice the length of the center back (this center back pattern is 3 inches), about 6 inches. Curve the collar pattern (figure A) and add in 5/8-inch seam allowances.

3. Cut the pattern and add interfacing to one of the collar pieces (figure B ). Notch 1-1/2 inch on both sides of the collar for placement of the turned-in collar edges to create the pedal (tuck) effect.

4. Stitch the collar, leaving the 1/2-inch collar point open for turning (figure C), and turn the collar. Tip: Notching is recommended for crisp fabrics.

5. Position the collar point back to the notch (figure D) and baste in place . For the fold, position finger in center, fold and hand-stitch a couple of stitches to hold in place (figure E).

6. Attach the collar to the band and to the shirt according to pattern instructions .

Pants

Materials:

Click & Sew Custom Classic Pants #7103 pants pattern
wool crepe fabric
thread
ruler
marking pen
ruler
scissors

1. Begin with basic slim pant pattern and alter the pattern. Find the center of the slack pattern and draw a guideline for the 1-1/2-inch shirred panel.

2. Mark 3/4-inch marks on each side of guideline (this equals the 1-1/2-inch shirred panel).

3. Instead of darts for this pattern, the pattern will have a curve at the top of the pants (similar to a princess seam). Measure the darts at 3/4-inch at top; mark a notch at the bottom of each dart (figure F) and draw in an angle (figure G), adding 1/2-inch seam allowances. Continue with the markings down the leg and trace around the pattern (figure H).

4. Allow for a 1/2-inch seam allowance on each side of the 1-1/2-inch shirring panel. Then the width of the strip will be 2-1/2 inches. Double the length of the strip (twice the length of the strip) for shirring.

5. Stitch two rows of stitching on each side of the shirring panel and pull the two threads to form gathers.

6. Pin the shirring strip to the pant leg (figure I) and stitch along the gathering thread.

7. Finish sewing the pants according to pattern instructions.

Pocket

Materials:

scarf pattern
silk fabric
thread
ruler
marking chalk
scissors

1. Position the pocket on the bias for a cowl (rounded) effect (figure J) and fold on the bias matching the edges.

2. To measure the pocket, use your hand width (figure K) plus 1-1/2 to 2 inches and mark (about 12 inches across). Measure 11 inches and mark again (figure L), creating a square pocket pattern. Then cut out the pocket.

3. To stabilize the pocket, stay-stitch the pocket (figure M), carefully curving around the edge. This creates a guideline for pressing the hem. Stitch the top (hem) portion of the pocket. Pin in place (figure N). Measure 3 inches inward on both sides of the pocket to create the cowl effect and stitch in place .